Tallinn, the capital of Estonia, lies on the southern coast of the Gulf of Finland, only 70 km (43 mi) south of Helsinki. At the historical and medieval heart of the city is the hill of Toompea, covered in cobbled streets and filled with medieval houses and alleyways. The lower town spreads out from the foot of the hill, still protected by the remnants of a city wall. Around the city wall is a series of well-maintained green parks, great for strolling.
The city's old town has been astonishingly well preserved and was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1997, it is now in better shape than ever, with the bigger roads converted into fashionable shopping streets reminiscent of Zürich or Geneva. Especially in summer, the Old Town is packed with tourists, with the traditional daytrippers from sister city Helsinki increasingly supplemented by Europeans taking advantage of cheap flights.
From history to nowadays
Tallinn is a historic city dating back to the medieval times and it was first recorded on a world map in 1154, although the first fortress was built on Toompea in 1050. In 1219, the city was conquered by Valdemar II of Denmark, but it was soon sold to the Hanseatic League in 1285. The city, known as Reval at the time, prospered as a trading town in the 14th century, and much of Tallinn's historic center was built at this time.
Tallinn then became a pawn in the geopolitical games of its big neighbours, passing into Swedish hands in 1561 and then to Russia under Peter the Great in 1710. By World War I and the ensuing brief Estonian independence (starting 1918) Tallinn's population had reached 150,000.
Estonia was eventually occupied by the Soviet Union in 1940, only to be conquered by Nazi Germany (1941-44) and then retaken by the Soviets. In World War II, the city was quite extensively bombed by the Soviets, even though luckily the medieval town remains. The Soviet Union undertook a program of massive Slavic migration, and just over 40% of Tallinn's current inhabitants are Slavic (compared to an average of 28% for the entire country). On Aug 20, 1991, Estonia declared independence and Tallinn became its capital once again.
Today, Tallinn is a bustling, gleaming metropolis of 400,000 people. However, among the tall glassy buildings and corporate headquarters, Tallinn retains an inner charm seldom found anywhere else. Estonia considers itself a Northern European/Scandinavian country, with very close ties to Finland (ethnic, linguistic, and cultural), and visiting Tallinn you will find a mix of at least three architectures in this very visual city - old Europe (the city walls and rustic buildings), Soviet brutalist (crumbling apartment blocks), and modern Europe (including McDonald's next to the city walls!).
SEE
The Old City
Viru Gate, (Entrance to Viru Street). This section of town is known as All-Linn or "Lower Town", as it's where the merchants and artisans of old Tallinn lived. Today, Viru is still Tallinn's trendiest shopping street and the entire All-Linn is the busiest (and most touristy) bit of Tallinn.
Raekoja Plats. The square in the heart of the Old City, ringed with cafes and restaurants.
Raekoda (Town Hall). Built in 1371, this heavy stone structure dominates the square. It now houses the Tallinn City Museum.
Toompea Hill. According to myth, the hill was built on top of the grave of legendary Estonian king Kalev, but more historically, it's solid limestone and the site of the Danish castle that founded the city in 1219. Toompea was the home of the Danish aristocracy and relations between the toffs and the plebs were often inflamed, which is why it's surrounded by thick walls and there's a gate tower (1380) guarding the entrance. Check out the viewpoints, some of which give great views over the city. There's also a cluster of amber (merevaik) shops around here.
Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. a classic onion-domed 19th-century Russian Orthodox church that has become a touristy symbol of the city, much to the annoyance of nationalist types who regard it as a symbol of oppression. It was almost demolished in 1924 during Estonia's first brief spell of independence, but the Soviets left it to moulder and it has been restored to its former glory.
Riigikogu. Estonia's Parliament, pretty in pink.
St Mary's Cathedral - Toomkirik. The oldest church in Tallinn, originally built as a Catholic church in 1229 but renovated and expanded many times since then, becoming a Lutheran church in 1561.
Museum of Occupations. Describes the life conditions under Soviet and Nazi regimes.
City Wall. A section of the City Wall can be climbed from the corner of Suur-Kloostri and Väike-Kloostri, with entry into three towers possible. Quite frankly, the views from up on Toompea are better, and the spiral staircases are steep and somewhat claustrophobic.
Ex-KGB Headquarters. Now the Interior Ministry and not generally open to the public, this is where the KGB detained and tortured suspected dissidents. A Soviet-era joke says that this was the tallest building in Estonia: even from the basement, you could see Siberia. Interrogations were indeed conducted in the basement and you can see even today how the windows were crudely bricked up with concrete to mute the sound.
Outside the Old City
Tallinn Zoo. This is an enormous area. Among its live exhibits you'll find the world's best collections of mountain goats and sheep, which means there a lot of them! Tallinn Zoo defies the realities of a relatively modest town -- it features all the elephants and crocodiles a visitor would expect to see in a larger zoo, as well as a breathtaking maze of lake-size ponds that host birds in summertime.
Open Air Museum. This museum includes 72 buildings of Estonian vernacular architecture and village milieu of the tsarist time of rule in a dark, dense forest. This museum provides a picture about the life and its hardship in the old times.
National Art Museum KUMU. Opened in February 2006, this is the largest government built building since the liberation and it is an almost 50,000 m² (538,196 ft²). The museum houses a cyclopic house, partly cut out of limestone rock.
Holy Birgitta Monastery. Monastery of Scandinavian female saints, as well as a landmark of 16th century catacombs and ruins. It includes a guest house operated by the nuns.
Song Festival Grounds. A huge Modernist structure where the All Estonian Song Festival, which is held every five years, features 34,000 singers and dancers in addition to a massive audience.
Tallinn Botanical Gardens.
PARTY
Music Festivals
Tallinn Music Week. Spring. Showcase festival, aiming to stage the best and most outstanding Estonian talent on two nights in Tallinn's most vibrant live venues, as well as a networking event for the music industry professionals.
Tallinn International Festival Jazzkaar. April. In addition to Tallinn jazz concerts also take place in Tartu and Pärnu.
Tallinn Old Town Days. May/June.
Õllesummer Festiva. July. Approx 70,000 people attend the festival each year over the course of 4 days.
Birgitta Festival. August. Music and theatre festival, held at the ruins of the historical Pirita (St. Bridget's) convent.
Drink
Tallinn's crazy nightlife is out of proportion to the city's small size. The days of armed mafiosos are (mostly) over and these days any drunken fights tend to involve British stag parties. Exercise some caution in choosing your venue, as some strip clubs and regular clubs make their money by fleecing tourists who come in for a drink. In local places, beers cost €2-3.
Bars and pubs
Beer House. Plenty of beer types to choose from in this large authentically styled and decorated Bavarian Beer hall, including 5 of their own beers made on site. Try the Medovar Honey beer.
Hell Hunt. The name means 'the gentle wolf' in Estonian. A comfortable and homey pub in the Old Town and offers a wide selection of beers (including two of their own brews) and some pretty decent food. Don't miss the spare ribs.
Kuku klubi. Founded 1935 by local art community and claiming to have had the best accessible cuisine in whole former USSR since 1958 during the Russian occupation.
Levist Väljas. A cozy alternative bar in Old Town with a small dance floor.
Lounge 24. Located on the top floor of the Radisson Blu Hotel, it offers spectacular views of Old Town and the Baltic sea from a trendy indoor setting and a breathtaking outdoor terrace. Lounge 24 serves a variety of light fares to full dinner menu, and a wide selection of beverages. Open to the general public.
Nimeta Baar (The Bar With No Name). Really fun place, popular with tourists.
Texas Honky Tonk & Cantina. Texas-style cantina is a casual place to knock back a Corona or a Bud, or even to try out the frozen margaritas churning in the electric mixer behind the bar. More serious drinkers can try the ‘tequila flights’ - 3 or 5 shots of different tequilas to give you a sampling, not that you’re likely to remember which was which next time around.
The Lost Continent. Australian bar.
Von Krahli. An avant-garde theatre/bar.
Nightclubs
Club von Überlingen. Trendy nightclub with frequent guest DJs.
Bonbon. Open to all who can get past the strict "face control". Over-the-top decor (chandeliers, leather seats) and prices to match.
Hollywood. Enormous club with five floors and three bars. A better version of its sister Club, Heaven Studios in Timisoara.
Parlament. Bubblegum pop and live events.
Terrarium. Plays middle of the road pop and disco. Popular with the young crowd. Reasonably priced.
Prive. Tallinn's flashiest nightspot, run by legendary warehouse party organizers Vibe, often has foreign DJs playing. Expensive and has strict face control, so dress up.
Angel. Tallinn's flashiest gayclub.
